Travel log Malawi, second passage
Monday 21-08 (165 km)
With Wa Bashasha’s blown out right rear aircushion, Paul is glad to be back on tarmac again and we slowly make our way back to Blantyre where we arrive just after 12.00 hours. We are greeted by Alice and her sons like old friends and everyone is curious about our expedition into Mozambique. For the time being, however, we have another priority: to get two new Firestone aircushions to mount between the chassis and the rear springs. Paul phones Jaba Motors in Cape Town – the guys that mounted the aircushions in the first place – and speaks to Mark by satellite phone (let no one ever cross Africa without one!!). Mark promises to find out whether the air cushions are available of the self and what way of transport to Blantyre is most appropriate. Less than 3 hours later, Paul’s satellite phone beeps and Mark tells him that two new aircushions are on their way to Blantyre by DHL. Expected arrival on Thursday. Whilst Paul is busy with the aircushions, I attend to Remigius. He has a bout of malaria and complains about pain around his heart. The malaria I treat with a high dose of Nivaquine, but about his heart condition I am less sure. Eventually Remigius lies down and takes a Nitro- glycerine pill prescribed by his Tanzanian doctor. We are all a bit worried and, to get Remigius back home as soon as possible, discuss alternative and shorter routes to Dar es Salaam in Tanzania.
Tuesday 22-08 (30 km)
We all sleep fitfully because of Remigius’ heart condition and are relieved that he is feeling a bit better in the morning. At breakfast we receive the message that the aircushions have already arrived at Blantyre international airport and we immediately leave to fetch them. The DHL manager at the airport is very efficient and we check the parcel. Yes … the right aircushions are there! Apparently DHL flies its own small plane 5 times a week from Cape Town, via Johannesburg and Windhoek, to Blantyre and back. The miracle of modern communication and transport has saved us from serious travel delays. The Malawian airport customs is a complete different matter. First they charge us US$ 300 import duties, more than the shelf value of the cushions. Then the processing of the necessary papers takes 4 hours. We are defenceless and have to put up with their “pole pole” procedures and their deliberately rude manners. If Blantyre is ever to become a real international airport, the custom officials there still have to learn a lot. On our way back to the guesthouse, we have tea at Mandala house and Roald buys a wood carving at the art centre there. At night we join the birthday celebration of one of the Dutch medical students staying at the guesthouse. Remigius, luckily, feels a lot better and eats his normal portion. We watch him with awe!
Wednesday 23-08 (80 km)
Time for Roald to travel back to Holland. At 11.00 we are at the airport. Immigration and customs are not a problem. The Chief Custom Officer recognizes Paul from yesterday and greets him like an old friend. Watching Paul’s face, I see he has a problem restraining himself from becoming violent. Roald’s bag is X-rayed by security personnel and labelled. Then he is allowed to take the bag back with him into the public restaurant upstairs. Half an hour later he walks into the South African Airways plane to Johannesburg without any further check. Maybe someone from South African Airways is reading this web log and will improve on security procedures in Blantyre in stead of wondering later how on earth a bomb came on board their aircraft! When we leave the airfield, we are again with the three of us - Paul, Remigius and I – and we decide to have a “settler” lunch in Mandala house.
Thursday 24-08 (30 km)
Paul and Remigius spent the greater part of the day in the garage to supervise the placement of the new aircushions. Once the car has been jacked up the damage can be clearly seen. One bolt and nut pair, securing the aircushion to the rear axle, has continuously rubbed against the lower rubber balloon and has eventually punctured it. We remove the punctured aircushion, but have some problems getting the cushion from its base plate. With some patience, and some releasing oil, we succeed. Fitting the new aircushion is done in less than half an hour. Although the second aircushion is slightly damaged as well, we decide, for the time being, to leave it in place. We have, after all, another spare one. The protruding nuts and bolts we cover with some thick rubber padding. Hopefully rubber rubbing against rubber will not damage the cushions. From today onwards, we will check regularly. After discussing the best route – from Blantyre, via Chintheche, Mbeya, Iringa and Morogoro to Dar es Salaam – we go to bed early.
Friday 25-08 (535 km)
Good roads and by noon we are in Salima. Here we have lunch and fill all the petrol tanks. An hour later the engine begins to run irregularly and soon it is obvious that we have tanked some unidentifiable shit. Probably a mixture of diesel and petrol, or very low octane petrol. There is nothing we can do, but try to keep the engine running! At a certain moment, vendors along the road offer mice kebabs. Eight or 10 mice, inclusive tails, on a stick. When I offer to stop and buy some for dinner, Remigius instantly feels sick! The road along Lake Malawi, with stunning views of the lake, brings us via Nkhotakota and Bwangwa to Chintheche. Here we try the Nkwazi Lodge, but unfortunately they have only one bed free. Ten kilometres down the road that eventually will lead us to Mbeya, the Sambani Lodge is signposted and we turn on the track to the right. We have almost given up, when we finally arrive at the place. Simple, clean and, we find out an hour later, with good food. No mice, but excellent grilled lake fish with rice and boiled vegetables. The lodge is Malawian owned and run and we can only recommend it to anyone travelling these parts...
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